So, you’ve decided to “get serious” about skincare.
You know the popular brands everyone swears by, maybe even taken a quiz to find your skin type, and you’re ready to build your routine. But suddenly, your biggest problem isn’t picking a cleanser, moisturiser, or sunscreen that fits your budget. It’s the extra bottles, toners, serums, essences, that the internet insists you need or you’ll never get that timeless glass-skin glow.
The tricky part? No one agrees. One person swears toners are pointless, another insists they’re essential. Serums are either “the holy grail” or “overhyped.” And essence? Half the time, you’re still asking, “Wait, what even is that?”
Don’t panic. Skincare isn’t about collecting every shiny product on the shelf, but choosing what actually works for you. So let’s break it down.
What are Toners?
Toners have always had a bit of an image problem. For years, they were basically liquid punishment, harsh, alcohol-heavy formulas that left your skin stinging, tight, and dry, all in the name of “shrinking pores.” (Spoiler: pores don’t shrink.) You’ve probably spotted those old-school bottles in your aunt’s cabinet or stuffed into an older sibling’s purse.
But skincare has evolved. Today’s toners are more about TLC than torture. Think lightweight, water-based formulas that give your skin a hydration boost, balance your pH, and prep it for whatever comes next. In simple terms, they’re the primer of your routine, helping everything you layer on afterwards work a little better.
What to Know Before Buying a Toner
There are different toners marketed to hydrate. Here’s what you need to know before selecting a toner based on your skin type.
Oily/acne-prone? Look for toners with salicylic acid. They help unclog pores, calm breakouts, and reduce irritation. For hyperpigmentation, ingredients like Vitamin C or niacinamide are more effective.
Dry or sensitive? Stick to hydrating ones with hyaluronic acid or glycerin.
Uneven skin tone? Gentle exfoliating toners with AHAs can smooth and brighten.
Pro tip: Avoid toners drowning in fragrance, dyes, or heavy preservatives; they do more harm than good and might even clash with your other products. And yes, that means standing in the skincare aisle reading the back of the bottle like it’s a novel, lol, welcome to adulthood.
What is Essence? The Mystery of the Skincare World
Essence is the step that makes beginners pause and go, “Wait… is this just toner in a fancier bottle?” Not exactly.
Essences became popular with Korean skincare and are designed to drench your skin in hydration while delivering lightweight active ingredients. They’re watery, but not as plain as toners. Think of them as the middle child between toner and serum; more potent than the first, less concentrated than the last.
Why people use it: Essences boost absorption of the products that follow and add that signature “glass-skin glow” K-beauty is known for.
Who it’s for: If your skin is dry, dull, or you just enjoy the ritual of layering products, essence can be your best friend. If you prefer a bare-minimum routine that’s quick and budget-friendly, you can happily skip it.
What to Know Before Buying Essence
Dry/dull skin? Look for hydrating essences with hyaluronic acid, snail mucin, or fermented extracts.
Ageing concerns? Try ones with peptides or niacinamide to help with fine lines and skin texture.
Sensitive skin? Stick to gentle, fragrance-free formulas with soothing ingredients like centella asiatica (cica) or green tea.
Climate check: In hot, humid climates, rich or multiple-layer essences can feel heavy unless your skin is truly dehydrated. If you love essences and live in a humid place like Lagos, lightweight essences may still work well.
Pro tip: Essences are nice-to-have, not must-have. If you’re chasing that plump, bouncy K-beauty finish, they’re worth it. If not, your skin won’t fall apart without one.
What are Serums? The Star Player
If toner resets and essence hydrates, serum is the problem-solver. These are concentrated formulas packed with actives, think Vitamin C for brightening, niacinamide for oil control, hyaluronic acid for plumping, and retinol for ageing.
Why people use it: Results. Unlike toners or essences, serums don’t just “prep” the skin; they target specific concerns and deliver visible change.
Who it’s for: Honestly? Almost everyone. Beginners can start with a simple hydrating serum, while anyone with acne, hyperpigmentation, dullness, or fine lines will find a formula designed to help.
What to Know Before Buying a Serum
As a beginner, start with one, like Hyaluronic Acid for hydration or Niacinamide for calming oiliness. As you get more confident, you can add targeted serums for issues like hyperpigmentation (Vitamin C) or fine lines (Peptides, Retinol).
Oily/acne-prone? Niacinamide or salicylic acid serums help regulate oil and calm breakouts.
Dry/dehydrated? Hyaluronic acid serums pull moisture into your skin and keep it plump.
Hyperpigmentation/dullness? Vitamin C or alpha arbutin can brighten and even out tone.
Fine lines/ageing concerns? Retinol or peptides encourage cell turnover and boost collagen.
Non-negotiables of using serums:
- Pick one concern at a time. Don’t cocktail ten serums on day one.
- Check ingredient compatibility (It is typically recommended not to combine retinol + AHAs as it can prove damaging for your skin, and be more harmful than healing).
- Timing matters: Vitamin C in the morning, retinol at night.
- Sunscreen is non-negotiable, especially if you’re using actives.
Pro tip: Serums are where you’ll likely spend the most money in your routine. But if you want targeted results, they’re usually worth it.
Read Also: 8 Skincare Mistakes You Don’t Realise You Are Making
So… Do You Even Need Them?
Here’s the honest bit: most people don’t. If your skincare routine has a gentle cleanser, a good moisturiser, and sunscreen, you already have the holy trinity covered.
Toners, essences, and serums are the extras. Whether you bring them in depends on:
- Your skin type (oily, dry, sensitive, combination)
- Your environment (humid vs. dry climates)
- Your budget (good serums are pricey; don’t break the bank)
- Your patience (skincare only works if you actually use it consistently)
- Your skin concerns ( whether that’s acne, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, or just chasing that glass-skin glow)
Worth it? Yes. If you’re going to spend money anywhere, serums give you the most significant return on investment.
How to Use Them (If You Actually Do)
You don’t need all three. You might not need any. But if you choose one, serum is where your money works hardest. The rest? Optional rituals that you can add if you enjoy the process.
Confused about layering? Here’s the rule: thinnest to thickest.
- Cleanser
- Toner (optional)
- Essence (optional)
- Serum (choose wisely)
- Moisturiser
- Sunscreen (daytime)
You don’t need all of these. But if you have them, that’s the order.
Your Routine, Your Rules
Skincare can feel overwhelming, but here’s the truth: you don’t have to do every step to have good skin. You don’t have to buy every bottle TikTok says will “change your life.” And you definitely don’t need to go broke in the skincare aisle.
Start simple. Add what feels right. And remember — the best routine is the one you actually enjoy doing every day.
FAQ on Serums, Toners, and Essences
Do I need all three?
Nope. If you’re new, stick to cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen. Add a serum for targeted results. Toner and essence are optional layers.
Can I use toner and essence together?
Yes. Toner preps, essence hydrates. But if it feels like too many steps, choose one.
Are essences just expensive toners?
Not exactly. Toners reset; essences hydrate. The textures and purposes are different, but you don’t need both unless you enjoy layering.
What’s the most important of the three?
Serum, hands down. That’s where your active ingredients live. They treat several skin concerns: acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, you name it.
Can I skip moisturiser if I use essence?
No. Essence hydrates, but moisturiser locks it in. Think water vs. seal.
📸: Allure, Ellen Noir, Glamour
